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 This
service is designed for Human Resource Directors or Facility
Managers of companies who wish to provide the service to all
of their employees company wide. Many major corporations offer
this service to their employees as a part of their benefits,
thereby providing convenience and increasing employee
productivity. We pick-up and deliver personal drycleaning and
laundry items from a designated place at your company, saving
employee’s time and offering convenient, quality service.
There
is no cost to the company.
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 You
designate a location in your building or office where we can
pick up personal items to be dry-cleaned.
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 We
provide you with a dry clean drop box and clothes rack to place
in the chosen location where we can pick-up and deliver the
articles of clothing.*
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 Place
all items to be dry cleaned/laundered or alteration items in a
bag. (When you receive your first order back it will come with a
bag for your next order, you may use that bag or any other in the
future.)
Fill
out the online order form at www.Americleaners.com
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 Submit
your credit card information online to our secure server. Print
two (2) copies of the order form and place one (1) copy inside the
bag. Please make sure to attach all coupons to your order form.
Keep the additional copy of the order form for your records.
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Once
you have electronically submitted your order, you will be e-mailed
a confirmation.
 An
Americleaners courier will pick-up and deliver items on the scheduled
day.
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To
find out if the service is available in your area or to set-up the
service for your company, simply fill out the set-up request form
and an Americleaners representative will contact you shortly to
answer questions and set-up the service. If your location is NOT
serviceable at this time, your information will be kept on file
and we will contact you as soon as Americleaners is introduced in
your area.
*
Americleaners offers a VIP Program for companies wishing to
provide the service office to office for their employees. Please
contact Americleaners
for more information
*
Americleaners’ reserves the right to refuse service to any
company that it deems not acceptable for the program. Certain
service charges and restrictions may apply regarding location of
the pick-up and delivery location. Please contact Americleaners
for more information.
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What is Dry Cleaning?
Dry cleaning is very similar to regular home
laundering, but a liquid solvent is used to clean your clothes instead of
water. The solvent contains little or no water, hence the term "dry
cleaning".
At Quality Dry
Cleaners, we use several very large computer-controlled "washing
machines". Your clothes do get wet, but the liquid solvent we use
evaporates much more quickly than water.
Since solvent is
used instead of water, it is not drained and disposed of as a washing machine
does with soiled water. The solvent is recirculated through 8 charcoal/paper
filters throughout the entire cleaning cycle to remove impurities loosened
during the cleaning process. At Quality Dry Cleaners, we
distill the solvent after each load to further purify it before it is used
again.
Drycleaning has two
distinct advantages over cleaning with water or "wet" cleaning:
- Water swells the fibers. It is this swelling action which
causes shrinkage and dye fading in many garments.
- Drycleaning solvents are superior to water in the removal
of oily or greasy residues which are the base component of many stains.
Of course, a dry
cleaning machine is only as good as the person running it. At
Quality Dry Cleaners, we inspect your clothes for spots and treat them before we
put them into the dry cleaning machine. We also perform the important
task of checking all the pockets before cleaning. (It only takes one ballpoint
pen in a pocket to ruin a load of clothes.) We then separate the clothing
according to colorfastness, delicacy, types of fabrics, hard/soft finishes.
These loads are run on specifically programmed cycles and temperatures to match
the type of clothes in the load.
Spots are one of the
most important reasons that you can rely on us to keep your clothes looking
their best. In order to successfully remove a spots we have made the investment
in:
- proper equipment
- effective and safe spot removal chemicals
- training about fabrics
You can help us keep
your clothes in top condition by identifying the location and nature of stains
when you drop off your garments. Some stains are very small or even invisible
(like white wine or fruit juices) and can be easily overlooked. Some invisible
stains become very visible later in the dry cleaning process and sometimes set
after cleaning.
After your clothes
have been properly cleaned, we "finish" (press) your garments using
specialized finishing equipment. This produces crisp, smooth results difficult
to duplicate at home with a hand iron. After your garments have been pressed,
they are inspected one last time and bagged to await your arrival
Stain Removal Guide
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Welcome to Quality Dry Cleaners's Stain
Removal Guide. Here we tell you how to remove everyday stains, from
candle wax, chocolate and lipstick, to gravy, salad dressing and red
wine. In most cases, your professional drycleaner can easily remove
these stains if you point them out.
Caution:
1. Stain removal is best accomplished
when the stain is still fresh. Do not put anything away when it is
stained or soiled.
2. You can often remove small stains
satisfactorily by home methods. We offer
this guide to help you do so, but it is generally better to let your
drycleaner do the work
when . . .
the stains are numerous or cover a large area
they require drycleaning chemicals not available to the consumer
the fabric is fragile or highly sized by the manufacturer
you are not sure what caused the stain
you are unsure whether the garment is colorfast
3. Blot, don't rub. Rubbing can cause
abrasion and damage the finish of your fabric.
4. Always read and follow the care
instructions on the garment's label. Follow these General Rules for
stain removal.
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5. Never use nail polish remover on
acetate, triacetate or modacrylic, as they will dissolve.
Index of Common Stains
Have a fabric care question you can't answer?
Ask
Bill, our Resident Expert, to receive a personal response via
e-mail.
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Butter - Butter is
an oily substance which can best be removed in the drycleaning process.
However, for light stains, pretreat with a liquid laundry detergent.
Place stain face down on clean paper towels. Apply liquid detergent to
the back of stain. Replace towels frequently. Let air dry; rinse.
Launder in hottest water safe for that fabric. Before drying, inspect,
and repeat the treatment and washing if the stain remains.
Return to index of stains.
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Candle Wax - Candle
wax consists of a wax and a dye, both are easily removed by a
professional drycleaner. You may be able to remove the wax, but removing
the dye in the wax without ruining your garment is the hard part.
For a small area, try hardening with ice, then
removing surface wax with a dull knife. For the remaining wax, place
stain between clean paper towels and press with a warm iron. Replace
paper towels frequently to absorb more wax and to prevent transferring
the stain. Place stain face down on clean paper towels. Sponge remaining
stain with "Shout" or "Spray and Wash"; blot with
paper towels. Let dry, then launder. Note: If any color remains,
relaunder with a bleach that is safe for the fabric.
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Carpet Stains - For
stains on carpets, visit the following sites at www.steam-x.com
Return to index of stains.
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Chocolate - A
drycleaner can pre-treat your garment to easily remove this stain in the
drycleaning process. As a home remedy, treat the stain with a prewash
spray or pretreat with a product containing enzymes. Launder. If stain
remains, relaunder with a bleach that is safe for the fabric.
Return to index of stains.
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Coffee
(plain or with sugar/sweetener) - Your professional drycleaner will use
a tannin remover before cleaning. In an emergency situation, flush stain
immediately with cool water or soak for 30 minutes in cool water. Blot,
don't rub, the stain with detergent and launder. Launder with bleach
that is safe for the fabric. Do not use soap (bar, flake, or detergents
containing natural soap), since soap can make stain permanent.
(with cream only) - Cream is an oily substance that is
best removed by drycleaning. For a home remedy, flush stain immediately
with cool water if possible; or soak for 30 minutes in cool water.
Sponge stain with a drycleaning solvent. Air dry. Blot, don't rub, with
detergent, then launder with bleach that is safe for the fabric. Do not
use soap (bar, flake, or detergents containing natural soap), since soap
could make stain permanent or at least more difficult to remove.
Pretreat or soak older stains with an enzyme product, then launder.
Return to index of stains.
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Cooking Oil - Light
stains can be pretreated with a spray stain remover, liquid laundry
detergent, or a detergent booster. Place heavy stains face down on clean
paper towels. Apply cleaning liquid to the back of stain. Replace towels
frequently. Let air dry; rinse. Launder in hottest water safe for that
fabric. Before drying, inspect, and repeat the treatment and washing if
the stain remains.
Return to index of stains.
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Cream Sauce - Fresh
stains should be soaked and agitated in cold water before washing. If
stain is dried or old, scrape or bush off any crusted matter and soak
for up to several hours in cold water using a detergent or an enzyme
presoak. Launder in warm (not hot) water. If stain remains soak an
additional 30 minutes and rewash.
Return to index of stains.
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Cheese Sauce - Fresh
stains should be soaked and agitated in cold water before washing. If
stain is dried or old, scrape or bush off any crusted matter and soak
for up to several hours in cold water using a detergent or an enzyme
presoak. Launder in warm (not hot) water. If stain remains soak an
additional 30 minutes and rewash.
Return to index of stains.
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Dye Stains - Dye
stains can be very difficult to remove. Soak the garment in a dilute
solution of all-fabric powered bleach. Check the garment care label and
check for color fastness first. If use of bleach is acceptable, soak and
then rinse. If the stain remains and the garment is colorfast, soak the
entire garment in a dilute solution of liquid chlorine bleach and water.
Caution: Chlorine bleach may change the color of the
garment or cause irreversible damage. Therefore, it is important to
check for color fastness before using. If the stain does not come out
within 15 minutes of bleaching, it cannot be removed by bleaching, and
any further exposure to bleach will weaken the fabric.
To check for color fastness to liquid chlorine bleach,
mix 1 tablespoon of bleach with 1/4 cup of water. Use an eyedropper to
put a drop of this solution on a hidden seam or pocket edge inside the
garment. Let it stand two minute, then blot dry. If there is no color
change it is safe to use the product. Powered bleaches have directions
for doing colorfastness tests.
There are a number of dye removers, such as one from
Rit, which are available in drug and grocery stores. However, color
removers will take out fabric colors as well as the stain.
Return to index of stains.
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Gravy - Treat the
stain with a prewash spray or pretreat with a product containing
enzymes. Launder. If stain remains, relaunder with bleach that is safe
for the fabric.
Return to index of stains.
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Ink (solvent
soluble) - Ink stains can be difficult to impossible to remove. This
stain is best removed by a professional drycleaner. However, if you must
try it yourself, you generally need to act fast to have a chance.
Sponge the area around the stain with alcohol before
applying it directly on the stain. Next, place the stain face down on
clean, white, paper towels. Apply alcohol to the back of the stain.
Replace towels frequently. Continue until no further ink is removed.
Then rinse thoroughly. Rub with heavy duty liquid detergent and launder
in hottest water safe for fabric, with bleach safe for fabric.
Instead of alcohol, you could try using drycleaning
solvent, such as Carbona, Energine, Goddard's. (Be sure to read and
follow the instructions on the product label. These products are toxic.)
Also, try a hidden inside seam first, to be sure the garment dye won't
be removed.
Some inks on white fabric may be removed with a dye
stripper. You should be able to find this in areas where package dyes
are sold. For stains on colored fabrics, check for dye stability in a
hidden area before using.
Return to index of stains.
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Ink (permanent) -
Permanent inks are almost impossible to remove. This stain is best
removed by a professional drycleaner. However, if you must try it
yourself, you generally need to act fast to have a chance. The first
step is to force water through the stain before it dries to remove
excess ink. Allow to dry. Sponge the stain with dry cleaning solvent
(read the directions carefully, it is toxic). Allow the fabric to
dry.Work a liquid detergent into the stain with your finger. Rinse. Soak
the stain in warm water to which 1 to 4 tablespoons of household ammonia
have been added. Rinse and repeat if stain is lessening. Launder.
Some inks on white fabric may be removed with a dye
stripper. Follow package instructions. For stains on colored fabrics,
check for dye fastness in a hidden are before using.
Return to index of stains.
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Lipstick - Place
face down on paper towels. Sponge area with drycleaning solvent, or use
a prewash soil and stain remover. Replace towels frequently; rinse. Work
light-duty liquid detergent into the stain until outline is removed;
launder. Repeat treatment if needed using an all-fabric bleach, because
it is less damaging to colors and fabric. Use liquid chlorine bleach for
tough stains, if fabrics are colorfast to bleach.
Return to index of stains.
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Make-up - Place face
down on paper towels. Sponge area with drycleaning solvent, or use a
prewash soil and stain remover. Replace towels frequently; rinse. Work
light-duty liquid detergent into the stain until outline is removed;
launder. Repeat treatment if needed using an all-fabric bleach, because
it is less damaging to colors and fabric. Use liquid chlorine bleach for
tough stains, if fabrics are colorfast to bleach.
Return to index of stains.
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Mildew - Mildew is a
growing organism that must have warmth, darkness, and moisture to
survive. Mildew actually eats cellulosic fiber and can also damage
manufactured fibers, causing permanent damage and weakening of fibers
and fabrics.
To treat mildew first brush or shake off mildewed
area. Pretreat stain with heavy-duty liquid detergent. Then launder in
hot water with heavy duty detergent and bleach safe for fabric. Let dry
in the sun. Badly mildewed fabric may be damaged beyond repair. Old
stains may respond to flushing with dry cleaning fluid, i.e., Carbona,
Energine, Goddard's (but, carefully read and follow the instructions on
the label, these are extremely toxic).
Return to index of stains.
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Milk - Fresh stains
should be soaked and agitated in cold water before washing. If stain is
dried or old, scrape or bush off and crusted matter and soak in cold
water using a detergent or an enzyme presoak. Launder in warm (not hot)
water. If stain remains, soak an additional 30 minutes and rewash. On
dryclean only items, see your local drycleaner.
Return to index of stains.
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Nail Polish - For
stains from nail polish, apply nail polish remover to the back of the
stain while laying the fabric on white absorbent towels. Replace towels
frequently. Then rinse and launder. Never use nail polish remover on
acetate, triacetate or modacrylic, as they will dissolve.
Return to index of stains.
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Odors - Your
professional drycleaner can remove most odors in the normal process of
drycleaning. For washable garments, most odors should be removed by
normal laundering. For stubborn odors sprinkle the clothes with baking
soda, let stand, and then vacuum.
Return to index of stains.
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Perspiration -
Perspiration, if allowed to stay in fabric, will permanently stain and
weaken the fabric. Aluminum chlorides in antiperspirants will also
weaken the fabric under the arms. Controlled use of antiperspirants and
frequent washings immediately after wear can minimize this type of
damage. Wearing an undershirt or perspiration pads, can also keep stains
off your shirts or blouses.
These types of stains can be difficult to remove. And,
the build-up of aluminum chloride or zinc salts may be impossible to
remove. Old stains are more difficult to treat because they have been
set, particularly from being heated in the dryer. For washable fabric,
treat light stains with a liquid detergent and then launder. Pretreat
heavy stains with a prewash stain remover. Allow to stand 5 to 10
minutes. Launder using an all-fabric bleach. If fabric has discolored,
you might try treating fresh stains with ammonia and old stains with
vinegar.
Return to index of stains.
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Rust - Removing rust
stains can be difficult. Rust stains cannot be removed in normal
laundering. Your professional drycleaners has access to rust removing
chemicals that are not available to the consumer.
Small stains may be removed with a few drops of a
retail rust remover. Follow package instructions. Do not let dry between
applications. Rinse thoroughly and launder with a liquid laundry
detergent and oxygen bleach, following directions.
Do not use chlorine bleach, chlorine bleach will make
the stains permanent.
Return to index of stains.
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Salad Dressing
(oil-based)- Most oil-based stains can be easily removed by your
professional drycleaner. In an emergency, light stains can be pretreated
with a spray stain remover, liquid laundry detergent, or a detergent
booster. Place heavy stains face down on clean paper towels. Apply
cleaning liquid to the back of stain. Replace towels frequently. Let air
dry; rinse. Launder in hottest water safe for that fabric. Before
drying, inspect, and repeat the treatment and washing if the stain
remains.
Return to index of stains.
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Smoke, Soot - Your
drycleaner has special odor-neutralizing chemicals to make your garments
smell clean and fresh. At home, shake off excess soot outdoors. Launder
in washing machine using a heavy-duty phosphate-based detergent or
heavy-duty liquid as recommended by manufacturer, one cup of water
conditioner, and 1/2 cup of all-fabric bleach. Use water setting
appropriate for the fabric. Air dry. Inspect for smoke odor. Repeat as
necessary. Three or four washes may be needed for cottons and cotton
blends.
Return to index of stains.
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Tar - Don't try to
remove this stain at home. Drycleaners have solvents to dissolve tar
that are not available for home use.
Return to index of stains.
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Tea
(plain or with sugar/sweetener) - Your professional drycleaner will use
a tannin remover before cleaning. In an emergency situation, flush stain
immediately with cool water; or soak for 30 minutes in cool water. Blot,
don't rub, the stain with detergent and launder. Launder with bleach
that is safe for the fabric. Do not use soap (bar, flake, or detergents
containing natural soap), since soap can make stain permanent.
(with cream only) - Cream is an oily substance that is
best removed by drycleaning. For a home remedy, flush stain immediately
with cool water if possible; or soak for 30 minutes in cool water.
Sponge stain with a drycleaning solvent. Air dry. Blot, don't rub, with
detergent, then launder with bleach that is safe for the fabric. Do not
use soap (bar, flake, or detergents containing natural soap), since soap
could make stain permanent or at least more difficult to remove.
Pretreat or soak older stains with an enzyme product, then launder.
Return to index of stains.
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Urine - If the care
label in your garment says Dryclean-only, do not attempt a home remedy.
On washable fabrics, soak stain in cool water. Pretreat with prewash
stain remover, liquid laundry detergent, or a paste of powdered
detergent and water. Launder in hottest water safe for the fabric, using
a bleach safe for that fabric. Do not use soap (bar, flake, or
detergents containing natural soap), since soap could make stain
permanent or at least more difficult to remove.
Return to index of stains.
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Wine - Your
drycleaner uses special chemicals to remove the tannin found in red wine
from your garments. At home, soak stain in cool water. Pretreat with
prewash stain remover, liquid laundry detergent, or a paste of powdered
detergent and water. Launder in hottest water safe for the fabric, using
a bleach safe for that fabric. Do not use soap (bar, flake, or
detergents containing natural soap), since soap could make stain
permanent or at least more difficult to remove. Note: Older stains might
respond to treatment with an enzyme product, then laundering.
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